Where the fakarava are we now? It is an old joke, but we never seem to tire of it. We are now visiting Fakarava, one of the more populated atolls in the Tuamotus. There is a small village here; three small stores (smaller than a 7-11), a bakery, multiple pearl farms, but no restaurants that we can find open. There must be a time when there is a little more going on, but at the moment there are only a few boats anchored in the harbor and they all look to be French flagged and probably resident boats. We were really looking forward to a meal we didn't have to prepare and preferably something other than fish. Instead we had to eat on the boat, yet again! We did find some meat from Uruguay and we did get our steak and frites, we just had to cook them ourselves. Internet has been quite pathetic, so I have yet to post many photos of how beautiful the islands are, but take my word for it, they are amazing. We will probably head towards the South pass which is famous for its shark diving and fantastic pass snorkeling today or tomorrow. We were able to provision in town, but we spent $600 and I was able to store all the food on the boat in about 5 minutes. Usually when I do a big shop it takes me hours to put everything away, but there just wasn't all that much food for the money spent. We were lucky with our timing and the supply ship had come the previous day so we were able to pick up a little fruit, potatoes and some carrots. We actually found some grapes that were amazing and we savored each bite much the way a heroine addict savors their poison. Our jones is definitely for fresh fruit. The shops often run out of staples, and since this may be our last shop before getting to Hawaii we were lucky to get flour, sugar, eggs, milk and some of the other necessities.
The Lagoon here is quite beautiful and every view from our cockpit could be a postcard. Small, planked docks jut out into the aquamarine water in a Bora Bora style. Picturesque cottages line the waters edge and a handful of local boats bob lazily on their moorings. The weather has been calm and we feel like we are getting a reprieve from the blustery conditions we have had throughout most of our stay in the Tuamotus. We rented bikes and toured the North end of the island at a much faster speed than usual. We are missing our fold up bike that some a%@hole is Europe is now using as well as the scooters we sent home at Christmas time, convinced there would not be any place to scooter in Polynesia. The coral and shell lined lanes that Michael and I remember from 20 years ago have all been replaced by concrete streets and they are perfect for touring on wheels. The locals all cruise around on bicycles and tricycles and we had a good time site seeing with local transport. We toured a few pearl farms, and although we got a nice walk through of the facilities and the process of extracting pearls, the pearls were very expensive. I think we got a little spoiled in Raroia trading for high quality pearls or paying very little. We wish we had the foresight to have bought a bunch of souvenir quality pearls (blemished), but unfortunately we were convinced we would have several other options to buy pearls. No such luck!
Anyway, we will slowly make our way through the Fakarava lagoon, sailing south to the south pass. We will stay there, hopefully do some diving and snorkeling and then look for a weather window to head towards Hawaii.
The following pages chronicle the journey of the sailing vessel Pelagic and her crew. We are a family of 5; Michael, Amy, Zander, Porter and Anakena, taking our 42' Hallberg Rassy as far as we can comfortably go in three years. We left Oregon in September 2014, participated in the 2014 Baja Haha, continued on through the Panama Canal, into the Caribbean, up the coast of the US to Maritime Canada and from there crossed the Atlantic. After an arrival in Ireland we toured Scotland, then sailed down to France, Portugal and on to Morocco. In January of 2016 we slowed down considerably and enrolled the kids in a local Spanish school in Sanlucar de Guadiana for a few months. In the spring of 2016 we crossed the Atlantic towards the Caribbean. We are now in the Pacific, officially on our way home, albeit via a very circuitous path. We are currently in French Polynesia and looking at weather windows to Hawaii before finally making landfall back in the Pacific Northwest.
Currently our exact location is not available. Our spot coverage will pick us back up in Hawaii towards the end of May, 2017.
Our favorite sailing quote:
"If anythings gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there boss!" Captain Ron